Expedition Diary #13
May 19, 2002

Base Camp, Mount Everest

NEWS FLASH - Old man summits Mount Everest and lives to tell the story!

Praise Jesus - I have climbed that sucker and I am leaving base camp tomorrow. Here is how it went: My climbing partner was Ang Tsering Sherpa, and as mentioned in the last update, I had climbed Island Peak with him in April on the way to Base Camp and had great confidence in his abilities. At 26-years old, this would be his 3rd Everest summit. As planned, I left Base Camp early on May 12th for Camp II (21,500') and spent 2-nights there. On the 14th I ascended to Camp III (23,800'), then using supplemental oxygen onto Camp IV at the South Col (25,880') on the 15th. After 6-hours of rest and hydration, I left for the summit at 10:30 PM on the evening of the 15th, and summited (29,035') about 11:15 AM on the morning of the May 16th.  The weather was absolutely perfect and I had no trouble keeping warm. The use of oxygen not only allowed me to keep climbing upward, but also helped keep my extremities warm. The views during sunrise were truly amazing - just awesome. This was the first weather window so it was a rather busy summit day - I would estimate that 60 or more people reached the top that morning, [The Ministry of Tourism reported 54 people on top]. This created a classic traffic jam at the Hillary Step on both the ascent (1-hour) and descent (½-hour). Two more summit days followed then the window shut and still remains closed as of today. I was able to spend ½ -hour on top of the world and thoroughly enjoyed every minute of the experience. Conditions were perfect with super visibility, a comfortable temperature and no wind. Geoffrey referred to it as a beach party in down jackets! I was very aware that most accidents occur during descent and further knew that I was completely spent - I mean absolutely out of oomph. I was quite concerned that I had pushed too far for this one and tried to focus on just how to get down safely. I formulated a plan with Ang Tsering and had him watch me closely - good thing since I stumbled numerous times. The descent from the Balcony was particularly difficult. As planned it took about 6-hours to descend to Camp IV at the South Col where I literally crawled into my tent and collapsed. I used (2) 4-litter and (1) 3-litter bottles of oxygen above Camp IV, varying the flow rate depending upon the circumstances. My turn around time was Noon. This all sounds great until you realize that your body does not recuperate at Camp IV, but in fact further deteriorates over night. I slept more then 8-hours without supplemental Oxygen and awoke dead tired.

To reach Camp II requires descending the entire Lhotse Face  - you might recall that this is where Peter was killed in April. I was truly terrified and double clipped and rechecked every repel set-up during the 8-hour solo trip to Camp II. After spending a night at Camp II, I made one last pass through the dreaded Khumbu Ice Fall returning to Base Camp early afternoon May 18th. This was definitely one of those climbs that was not over until you returned to Base Camp. When you combine dangerous terrain with extreme fatigue you have a sure-fire formula for disaster.

Bottom Line: I climbed Everest, I am very pleased, I am down safe and anxious to get back home to my family and friends. Many of you know that I am a Christian and it will come as no surprise to you that I give Jesus and the power of prayer all the credit for this great experience. During this expedition I have been continually in prayer, had numerous family members and friends praying for my success and safety. I even read through the entire New Testament while here at Base Camp.  Something about on-going exposure to high anxiety experiences that drives one in this direction. Trust me - this was an "on the edge of your chair" type of experience. I completely under-estimated the difficulty of this climb - it was a genuinely terrifying experience. I know I would have not summited without this inner peace and prayer support. Would I do Mount Everest again - no, it is just too dangerous. Am I glad I did it - you bet. 

My fingers continue to heal from the frostbite I received on April 26th and should be fine in a week or two. I plan to leave Base Camp tomorrow, May 20th, for the 40-mile hike to Lukla, then hopefully fly to Katmandu on May 22nd. With any luck at all I should get home the Memorial Day Weekend. I will send one final update from Foresthill and look forward to seeing or talking with each of you in the near future. 
  
Don't forget that I am not able to receive any e-mail here at base camp. So please do not try to respond to this e-mail.

Until the next update, my best regards, Randy