Expedition Diary #7
April 29, 2002

Base Camp, Mount Everest

Well I am back here in Base Camp after a rather intense experience over the past 11-days. Leaving Base Camp on April 22nd, I climbed directly to Camp II (21,500 feet) in the Western Cum with a load I picked up at Camp I (19,700 feet). After spending 2-nights at Camp II, I climbed 1/2 of the very steep Lhotse face (45+ degrees & 20+ fixed lines) to Camp III (23,800 feet) in very bad weather. We were avalanched twice (minor sluffing) and exposed to unbelievably strong winds. I would estimate that gusts reached 80+ miles per hour - strong enough that I was blown off my feet on one occasion. Mike, Geoffrey and I were the only ones to reach Camp III that evening. Overnight was truly amazing since the storm did not let up in the least and we were subjected to the strong winds all night. Tents were destroyed all around us - several at Camp III and many at Camp II. I would estimate that more then 20 tents were totaled that night  - luckily not ours! Do to the winds, the Lhotse face did not load up with snow and in the morning we were able avoid any avalanche danger and rapidly descend to Camp II. After one more night at Camp II, I descended to Base Camp (17,500 feet). I'll tell you sincerely, it's good to be back "home." That was the strongest storm I have ever experienced in over 40-years of climbing. In fact, several climbers are currently trapped at Camps II & III and it's not clear how many days they may have to wait before descending.  I did not completely escape the storm as I have minor frostbite on both thumbs and 5-fingers. I emphasize minor frostbite. They will heal in time for the summit attempt, which I estimate will be in 2-weeks or less depending on the weather and other teams plans. This completes my acclimatization process for Everest  - the next time it's climb to the top! A summary of the acclimatization above Base Camp thus far: 2-nights at Camp I, 5-nights at Camp II, 1-night at Camp III, climbed halfway up the Lhotse Face and a total 3-round trips through the dreaded Khumbu Ice Fall.

After a minimum of 4 or 5-days rest at Base Camp, we go for the summit as soon as we have a good long-term forecast. It's a kind of hurry up and wait game now. The plan will be to go directly from Base Camp to Camp II, then to Camp III. >From Camp III we will use Oxygen to the South Col (Camp IV, 26,000 feet), and then on the fourth day we will try to summit (29,030 feet), returning to Base Camp 2-days later. There is a theory that descending from Base Camp to a lower elevation after acclimatization further aids in the body healing and better prepares one for the summit attempt. Since it's cold here at Base Camp and there is no relief from the constant snow and general misery, I have decided to descend along with most of the climbers to Phreche for 2-days and then return to Base Camp. The only real danger is the darn Maoist - they are really active these days and there have been reports of attacks on climbers not far from this area. Freeze or be robbed. Oh well - after all it's Nepal - Phreche here I come!

Last night was a real special event - completely unplanned but totally neat. A trekker had sent up a small guitar and one of the Hungarian team members, Mezo, started playing some songs (rock, folk, etc.) after dinner.

Before long some Sherpa started showing up and we ended up with a mix of Sherpa, Hungarian and American songs as 14 of us huddled in our dinning room (rock walled structure covered with a tarp). It was the latest I have stayed up this entire trip - I actually went to bed after 9:00 PM!

If the weather ever improves, I hope to take bucket shower and wash some clothes before descending to Phreche. As mentioned before, the food here at Base Camp is good, my appetite is strong and other then the constant cold, all is well. I do miss my family and friends - thank you all for your support and prayers. My special thanks to Scott for sending this e-mail out to each of you.

Don't forget that I am not able to receive any e-mails here at base camp. So please do not try to respond to this e-mail. Sorry about that.

My next update will be before our summit attempt - time permitting - from here at Base Camp. If I don't get an e-mail to you before the climb, it will follow shortly thereafter.

Until then, my best regards, Randy