7-Summits - The quest for the highest mountain in each of the seven continents, Update #5.

January 26, 2004
Foresthill, CA

Hello everyone. I just returned from Antarctica and wanted to bring you up to speed on the recent trip. As I mentioned in my last update, it is mandatory that you use the services of an expedition provider in order to climb in Antarctica. I went with Alpine Ascents International based in Seattle, WA. They did a great job and also provided updates on their website at www.AlpineAscents.com/vinson-cybercast.asp. I know several of you followed the cybercast updates so some of this may be a little repetitive. The flights to Punta Arenas, Chili went off without a hitch and all my climbing gear arrived in tact. After a 4-day weather delay we flew to Patriot Hills, Antarctica. There was an equipment change this year and for the flight to the ice we utilized a Russian IL-76TD Illuyshin airplane crewed by 4 folks from Kackazsyn. This is essentially a mini C5A and it was a very exciting ride – especially the landing on the 3-mile long blue ice runway. The next afternoon after arriving at Patriot Hills, the weather cleared and we flew via a DHC6 Twin Otter to Vinson Base Camp located at ~7100’ on the Branscomb Glacier. The following day after establishing Base Camp, we ferried loads to Camp I at ~9100’ and returned to Base Camp for the night. Typically during carries I used a sled with ~35-pounds and also carried a 40-pound pack. We then carried a second load and moved to Camp I. We elected to not use the traditional Camp II, but rather decided to carry loads and move directly to High Camp located at ~12,300’ in the Vinson-Shinn Col cutting 2-days out of the climb. After a carry up the head wall to High Camp and returning to Camp I, we left the next day with another load for High Camp. Since we were in a good streak of weather we blew off a rest day went for the summit after just 5-days of climbing. Summit day was pretty rough with an altitude gain of ~4000’. To make things worse, I caught a cold from a fellow climber and it flared up the last night at Camp I, so that on summit day I was very sick. Considering the logistics and expense of climbing in Antarctica, I had no choice but to push for the top – sick or not – and it turned out to be a very difficult day for me with lots of congestion and coughing fits. Basically, the mucus froze to the inner lining of my lungs making it nearly impossible to get enough oxygen into my blood stream and every step a huge chore. It took 9 ½-hours to reach to top; we spent 1-hour on the summit, and then another 2 1/2-hours to descend to High Camp. The views from the summit of the Ronne Ice Shelf, Mount Shin and the surrounding area were incredible. I so sick that I hallucinated on the summit of Vinson and managed to throw up three times on the descent – note that this was the first time I have ever thrown up on a climb. Following the summit day, we took a rest day before carrying humongous loads (~70-pounds) down the head wall and back to Base Camp. I was still quite sick on the descent to Base Camp, but my cold improved considerably by the time I arrived back at Patriot Hills. By being very careful, no one else caught the cold from me. Overall, the climb of Vinson Massif (16,067’) was a tremendous success. With the extremely cold weather (often -40 0F), rarified air due to its polar location, and being sick, it was a much harder climb then I expected and involved considerable effort. Keep in mind that Antarctica is almost the same size as the entire United States and has less then 1000 people on the continent and that Vinson is ~1800mi from the nearest city. Considering the isolation, it was truly an unrivaled and formable challenge, and very few people have ever stood on its summit.

Following the climb, I was able to get a ride to the South Pole for a pick-up flight of a team of overland explorers. This group of 5-people had just finished a 61-day trip traversing from the Hercules Inlet to the South Pole, a distance of more then 1000km. One member told me that he nearly went crazy from the boredom and that he had literally recited nursery rhymes to keep from going completely bonkers. Some people also do a trip called the last degree, that is, they traverse the last 100km to the pole. I wisely chose to do the last 100m by leaving the Twin Otter and walking the 5-minutes to the South Pole – and believe me I have no regrets regarding this approach. The South Pole is truly an amazing place. I did 31-counterwise laps around the geometrical South Pole, crossing the International Date Line on each lap and thus taking a month off my age. I also toured the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, visited the ceremonial South Pole, took some pictures, and managed to nearly freeze my rear off. The elevation is ~10,000’ and it was colder then -40 0F with some wind. At the South Pole they say the skiing is great with 2” of powder on an 8000’ base!

The Illuyshin returned to Patriot Hills with a load of fuel and supplies on the evening of January 23rd and immediately turned around for the flight back to Punta Arenas, Chili. The final leg of my Antarctic journey was none too soon, and on the return flight the Captain actually let me sit in the pilot seat while we were over the ocean – pretty cool huh! I then re-booked my flights home and arrived in Foresthill on Sunday morning, January 25th.

Keep in mind that the Foresthill Divide Web page has copies of all of my 7-Summits updates at http://www.foresthilldivide.com/7summits.htm. Also, once again a big thanks to my sponsors. Without them I could not have done this expedition. Please give them your support. They include: Abram Interstate, Donner Ski Ranch, Epiphany Sales Inc, Foresthill Beacon, Foresthill Messenger, Foresthill Telephone, Grant Hardware and Plumbing, Guard Transmission, Klinger Construction, Monte Verde Inn, Power Play Energy, Ragen MacKenzie Investment Services, Pasco Scientific, Power Play Energy, SciTech Astronomical, Townsend Design, VG Donuts and Bakery and numerous individual contributors.

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